Valparai and chalakudi trip:

I've been to valparai a few times in almost all the seasons. It eventually taught a cardinal principle in life: that life is a journey and not the destination. The process is more important than the end-product itself. For a motor enthusiastic, the power of the engine in tackling the steeper head-on inclinations is itself a treat than what nature has to offer.(Nature is offering nothing, but we humans interpret it that way, to kill that conscience which reminds you that by your visit you are adding carbon footprint). Driving up is a detrimental to the purpose of travel, for it leaves you with only 20-30 percent of your attention to watch and feel. Hence a bus is the best mode to do a trip. Economically too it is better, and you leave a little less carbon on earth in the journey. For the rest of the tourists it may be agreeable, but for a person with a heavy conscience like me, it is never convincing to waste resources.

The engine sound (I wont call it a noise) when pulling uphill-especially near the peak when the torque does its duty is an absolute delight to hear. It is the moment when the engine is proving its power. Such moments are a plenty in this trip, and with the newer generation turbocharged diesels, it is an absolute treat with the added turbo whistle. This thought was ringing in my head right from the moment I saw a bus with destination to chalakudy via valparai from pollachi. This bus starts from pollachi bus stand by 9 pm, reaches valparai late at night, and starts from there to Chalakudi via athirapally falls early in the morning. This timing information I got from the driver. So in no way I can take this bus to valparai, and since the starting time from valparai is at 9 am, I have to catch the early morning buses to valparai to reach before 9. The time could not be more apt, for it was mid of july, and it had been the monsoons from june. There could not be a better time to visit the western ghats. Dad was like, where in the rain you are going? I did not reply, for any reply would be like only when it is raining the going will be, and will invite wrath.

The next morning, I got up early, went to the bus station at 5, and already some hill-bound passengers were waiting there, therefore satisfied from the fact that the first bus is still not arrived. It was already shivering, but I wore only a vest inside. But Valparai is not going to threaten you with bitter cold, so this was more than enough.

The 5.30 bus came. It was from the shed, so it is confirmed that there is no night service from valparai. This is better, for the driver will be fresh, and so less chance of an accident (look how my capitalist mind is thinking?) in the rains. There were only 10-15 passengers in the bus, and it was starting to drizzle. The turbo was not sounding properly-I think these drivers don’t lubricate it properly, or because of the constant high rpm travel they get busted so early. It was a BS-II turbo, and BS-III turbos will be even better in NVH. But who cares, and will a journey be a journey without the engine sound? I sat in the single seat beside the driver, but the conductor promptly asked me to sit behind. For this is the VIP seat it seems, and meant for staffs. The fare was 21 rupees and reaching Aliyar, it halted for tea. Taking a tea is better, but it will lead you with an overworking kidney, so the minimum intake of liquid is better.

From Aliyar, the ghat session begins. The road fringes the dam, and on reaching Monkey falls(which actually is a waterfall) the hair pin turns begin. There was a roar of water from the falls. The road condition throughout is excellent, except for some narrow segments where the oncoming vehicles have to stop from even 200-300 mtrs. It was drizzling a bit more now but once on some considerable elevation, it was foggy and no rains. The 8^th or 9^th pin is the steepest, and it is actually a viewpoint to see the dam. The engine now was at its optimum heat, for there was a rush of warm air from the engine cover to my feet. So, this is how the driver survives the cold by a simple pant-shirt attire. Before reaching attakatti, the forest has dense canopy, a rainforest like scenario, buzzing insects, darker colour of leaves. Maybe there is a gap in the hill ranges so that there is heavy rainfall in these segments. The bus slowly passing these areas is a very lively feel. When Attakatti is reached, the rain has stopped, and everywhere there was this stream of rainwater channeling towards the slopes. The real chilling (not cold) started from here. The sort of which makes you shiver, even though the temperature is around 18-22 degrees. There was a contrast here, the chilling winds from the window on one side, and the engine heat from the other side. Still I did not close the window, and the fellow at the backseat got up disgruntled and went back. I felt relieved but also had compunction. My appearance with a unshaven face with the recent tonsure from tirupathi might have discouraged him from requesting to close the window.

The Waterfall tea estates came, and this was a considerably larger estate. Then came the forest again, and it was scintillating to see the fogging of the mountain slopes, with the chilling winds ever-present. It rained on from here, and it never stopped. Then the bus stopped again for tea: at Kavarkal, where there is a huge boulder. The principle of having less tea was to be broken; for I was more than shivering. Bus was the primary mode of transport for the school children, and since this was the first bus, there were a lot of them. They were watching me shivering, with a simple shirt on, and I tried to walk in the rain. But the rain drop size was large enough to hurt the skin. So I huddled back into the seat. Also there was a traffic created there by two slow moving trucks carrying firewood from the plains. But the trouble came from a inane tourist in a maruti 800 who took a U bend head on without even noticing the struggling trucks(the trucks were NA engined) to stop just a metre before them. There was a whish-whash of air brakes and a relief of not being a witness to the crushing of the 800.

From kavarkal, it was the mist that took priority over the rainfall. Any vehicle coming down is seen just 2-3 meters at front, and that too by the headlights. I think xenon white lights will be totally useless in this situation. The windshield was totally white, and I was awe-struck when I heard the driver teasing a passenger whether he took bath from a waterfall (pointing to it). On every corner, there was a gush of fresh, chilling winds at considerable speed along with the mizzle. A schoolgirl was sitting beside me and she told that all the season it was raining like this.

I left civilization, for the appearance of cottages are direct contrasts from the concrete jungles of the town. Rottikadai was the next bus stop, and after that it was valparai town. It started to pour again, and as the bus reached the Gandhi Statue stop, I alighted. I had only a cap, but nevertheless enquired about the chalakudi bus. They informed me that one bus had gone at 7.30 itself. Now it was 8, and next bus at 9. So having one hour ahead, I went to have a coffee/refreshment. After the bakery’s coffee and four biscuits, I felt hungry still. So I entered a café, and had set dosai and vadai as add-on (though not requested). The bill was for 19 rupees. Cheap, yet tasty. Sambhar smelt and tasted good. I then waited at the bus stand, and the rain had stopped. Then the yellow bus to kerala which I saw the previous day at pollachi was sighted.

I boarded the bus, and this too was empty-just 10-15 people there and most of them to local destinations on the way. It then started to drip, but weather was fair enough to keep the windows open. From valparai, it is a descent down, and then climbing up to sholayar dam. In between there is a place called Mudis. There was no other vehicle except the estate truck (mostly the eicher) or the ambulance. There were very narrow bridges with a sea of water flowing below: some of these bridges never had railings that even an M800 car cannot pass without precaution. The driver, having used to the roads, took them swiftly, giving a lead-in of more than necessary. Over these bridges there were markings indicating periodic maintenance. Roads were pathetic, but the bus never complained and even then a tata safari overtook us. Perhaps an estate owner, for no tourist will(can) take such speeds in these roads.

After a few such bridges, then it began to ascent. Now it was crossing Mukkotumudi-meaning three-line-peak. There comes a tea factory with the blower sound. After this the bus reached the end of sholayar dam, when there was a turn left to reach the dam. This was indeed the TN border, and right ahead Kerala state welcomes in a green-red hoarding. The working government can be seen in the way the bus caters to estate workers-people those who dresses in bare necessities and using plastic bags to make them water resistant. People work in the rain plucking fresh tea leaves, their supervisor in a shorts, shoe and in a better position (because he had an umbrella). The place which is looking like a heaven to me, is pretty an ordinary workplace for these people. Estate owners and workers often go on talks for wage revision; they usually ply on recession and world competition to drape their profits. And it is always a compromise promising the bigger cake for the next revision, every time. How could then estate owners manage to drive around in imported 4x4s or premium SUVs? Maybe this is all the perils of the capitalist mode of our economy.

Then there was a local deity, and the usual kerala familiar nocks like communist party symbols and names in red on all walls. There was a kerala forest checkpost, and it welcomed us to the vazhachal forest division. Enter the forest and it began to rain heavily-it was pouring on the windshield and the road was a mini-stream. The driver complained about the lack of a ditch on the edge as the water flowing on the road makes it worse. The chilling was absent here deep in the forest; a character of rainforest scenario. From advancing into the forest, the change of vegetation is perceivable. The leaves are long or broad, the colour was a deep green and light green. By description they seem to be deciduous, but the density of the undergrowth and the buzzing of insects reminds of the rainforests. It is really enchanting to see the variety of the greenery along with trees (eucalyptus the most). The road got narrower as also the inclination. Kerala Sholayar dam was sighted on the right. There were a few areas where there was a foot long depression on the road-even the 20 inch wheels struggled to combat them. The use of the first gear (low gear) and the turbo at its peak and I could see tarmac again. On every incline, one can hear the drop of the rpm of the engine gradually, with the torque picking up-the constant pull that is experienced, and with a slight depressing of the pedal, and it pulls up effortlessly. I was unaware of the total kms to be covered in the forest or the trip time, and this added an element of thrill to the journey. Also there were broken trees lying across, cleared-up for the time being. This reminded me of what actually to do when there is a fresh incident of trees blocking the road! There was no way to even reverse the bus. Then the driver started to honk at every turn, he was prompt for at one blind corner a kerala private bus (the 7.30 bus) came out of nowhere. The air brakes ensured the avoiding of a collision. Then there was a bit of reversing and so on. Also, there were a few trucks (all kerala 10 wheelers) and the way the drivers adjusted mutually can teach a lesson in road courtesy.

There were a few forest outposts with officials ready to clear the next tree on the road. I started to wonder how mankind survived in the past in these forests; what will he do to save him from wildlife. Kerala government’s policy of minimum interference to forestry may arise from a real concern on nature or a lack of will to do so, but it does retain the nature in its natural form. Then there came this bamboo trees, and they were too narrow that the shoots hit the windshield everytime. The paint on the fringes of the glass frame was completely removed because of this. After this, it was getting downhill. Until now, the rains didn’t stop, and the on the descent there were streamlets, rapids and all ways how water found its way to the chalakudi river. At a few places, bamboo bundles were being loaded to open chassis tata lorries. Then there was freshly laid elephant refuse on road-the driver remarked that elephants here were naughty and were a real menace at night. Nevertheless trucks ply this route at night too. If broad daylight it was awe-inspiring, imagine how night will be.

After a kerala checkpost, the driver stopped for tea again. I enquired an officer to know that athirapally falls were 7 kms away. From here, the road was broad and better. The falls are at a distance from the road and so only a distant view is possible. After this the forest cleared to give a very pleasant scene of palm and rubber plantation on either sides. Womanfolk were busy plucking palm for oil extraction. Then there were some typical kerala houses(that mosses grown terrace, with fair-complexioned girls in traditional dresses with sandal paste across their forehead). The benefit of gulf remittance can be seen in beautiful penthouses and villas even a British will envy. Chalakudy is neither pleasing nor disgusting. Rain seemed to have washed clean the town. It was 1.15 pm when it reached the bus station.

I got down, looked for some hotel. There was one simple one directly opposite to the bus stand. Since time was limited (2.15) I was prepared to take food there itself. Rice was the standard mattai rice, sambhar, pepper rasam. Every person there took sambhar twice or thrice, and I am the only person who asked for buttermilk. This rice has better vitamin B components, so I am not complaining. Then I took a small walk and returned back. Coffee was in my mind and three street vendors didn’t have their boiler! Then one fellow prepared some coffee that was next best to hot water.

The bus was ready to start. I took the seat back of the driver. Then near chalakudy the driver asked me to take the VIP seat (the single window seat). I was more than happy, and the view of chalakudi falls was enchanting. There was more volume of water than ever, for it was the peak of the season. There were a few tourists though, there was a madras family with a girl in her 20s. She was a bit corpulent. Indeed they were surprised to see a TN bus this side, for they would have traveled half of kerala to reach the falls. The driver advised me that I should have taken the 7.30 bus and after some time at the falls I could have returned in this bus. I nodded, but said to myself that seeing the falls was not in my wish list. There were no rains and I could catch a bit of sunny weather too. Chalakudi River, as seen while crossing it over the bridge was really terrifying; the quantity of water and the speed of the flow really inspired awe. Any trained swimmer could not survive for more than 5 minutes. This confirms that kerala receives more rainwater from the monsoons from the Western Ghats, though almost all of it is sent back to the sea. Hence the humid weather on their side too. TN has a more even plain, hence water can be put to much use.

The threat to the natural ecosystem is not from elephants or the loaded trucks; it is from the prolific, filthy rich Keralites. Every cascade side was occupied by a wagonR or santro: blaring music, alcohol bottles. V.K.Krishna Iyer is writing columns and columns in The Hindu about this boozing culture. At some point there was a guy with a booze bottle in his hand, dancing wildly. Throughout the journey, there was no rain. There was a fresh tree brought down by the rains and the bus actually has to scrap it sideways. Then I had a chatting session with the driver: he said that the mileage of the bus was 5.33 kmpl. Possible, for it was a short chassis bus. The engine is new(only 60k run!). The driver then delivered a packet(some food packet) on the way to someone at 10 feet bridge area(mid way in the forest). I was wondering how a single person could stand in the forest waiting for the bus. He had no protection gear-only a simple dhoti. And what is he doing there? Perhaps bamboo grazing. When the engine sound is reduced to a hum, I could hear the tranquility of the forest. The driver informed me that tribes live in forest cultivate banana, rice and all stuff, so they are not dependant on civilization to live.

There was a little rain after Mudis. It was getting dark at 6 pm-I could feel the closing of the day. The mild breeze, chilling temperatures, cloudy skies, eternal greenery etc. is to be etched in memory for the time being. It became dark after valparai and the only consolation was the occasional rush of wind at the corners. The foggy sections before kavarkal was even more dangerous to drive. Then rain started after Attakatti. Down the hill a TN scorpio overtook the bus in a dangerous speed, proving that they are no less civilized than their kerala counterparts. The bus driver, courteous enough, took it without any hitches for it was just another day at work. I reached pollachi at 9 pm.

Nevertheless of the 4.5 hour sleep in the previous night, I was able to hold on for the entire journey.

A trip to remember and cherish in my life in memory, for in future change eventually changes everything.

(I regret having taken an ill-decision to avoid camera for fear of getting wet).

Pollachi-valparai 65 kms
-chalakudi 166 kms
Athirapalli – chalakudi 30 kms
Valparai to chalakudi 4.25 hrs, 100 km